($17, Vineyard Brands): Ellis, one of South Africa’s leading producers, makes two Chardonnays, one from grapes grown in Stellenbosch and this one, from Elgin, South Africa’s coolest viticultural area. The cool climate is expressed by a dazzling freshness and vigor that enhances and amplifies its underlying toasty creaminess.  Despite winemaking techniques such as barrel fermentation, lees stirring and barrel aging that can be overdone and that have the potential to overpower the fruit, this Chardonnay has impeccable balance and finesse.  And those who say they need very ripe grapes to make excellent wine need to look at the modest 13% alcohol of this one.  A bargain at the price. 91 Michael Apstein May 19, 2009