($33, Martine’s Wines): The Douro River in Portugal is world famous for producing Port. It is rapidly becoming known for red table wine as well, largely due to the efforts of Dirk Niepoort and the other ‘Douro Boys,’ as this group of young winemakers is known. But a white wine–let along one with this kind of complexity and class– from the Douro is distinctly unusual. A blend of indigenous grapes, the Redoma Branco has a subtle creamy mouth-filling quality balanced by a glossy lanolin-like texture and zippy acidity that keeps it fresh and lively. Amazingly, there is not a trace of heaviness that you’d expect from a wine coming from a warm clime. 90 Michael Apstein May 12, 2009