($30): I know, 30 bucks for Beaujolais is a lot of money.  But, this is not your father’s grapey rendition.  Louis Dressner manages to find Beaujolais producers who make distinctive wines.  Those of you skeptical of the genre–that includes Michael Franz, my colleague and editor at WRO–really ought to try wines like this one.  There is, of course, a mélange of red and black fruit flavors, but what is impressive here is the minerality and earthiness that lend complexity and make this a serious wine.  With good structure–mild tannins–this is a Beaujolais that will continue to evolve so, as good as it is now, there’s no rush to consume it. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 31, 2009