($30, Louis Dressner Selections): The Clos de la Roilette is a beautifully located 22-acre vineyard in Fleurie, one of the ten crus (named villages) of Beaujolais, adjacent to Moulin-a-Vent. This, the Cuvée Tardive–not to be confused with a vendange tardive, which would indicate a sweet wine–is a selection from old vines and typically needs more aging time. The 2007 is no exception. This is no flowery or grapey Beaujolais. Rather, it’s serious stuff, with firm tannins, but plenty of stuffing–black fruit and spice–to reward cellaring. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 10, 2009