($18, Vineyard Brands): Viognier can be a tough grape to vinify because its characteristic aromatics and flavors don’t emerge unless the grape is quite ripe, which can translate into a high and intrusive level of alcohol.  This Spice Route rendition pulls it off nicely, with alluring hints of peaches and honeysuckle without heaviness or the burn of alcohol.  It has a pleasing softness without being overdone or overripe, which means it’s a good wine to sip before or while preparing dinner and then to carry to the table. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 3, 2009