($112, Louis Dressner Selections): You read the price correctly.  More than $100 a bottle for–of all things–a wine made from Cabernet Franc grown in Saumur-Champigny, not exactly France’s most famous viticultural area.  But what an outstanding wine!  Clos Rougeard is considered by most locals to be the area’s best producer.  This wine, from the oldest vines of the estate, an 80-year-old vineyard directly above their cellar, is unquestionably the best of a trio that includes two other superb wines. It has a seductive combination of minerality, savory leafiness and red fruit.  Like a great sauce, no one element stands out–the flavors merge seamlessly and new ones emerge with each sip.  It has mind-boggling length, suaveness and balance. 96 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009