($22, Vintage New World): Looking for an excellent $20 Chardonnay?  Look no further. If your image of Australian Chardonnay is that of an oaky blockbuster, this wine will change your perception.  The Margaret River area of Western Australia has the potential to produce some of Australia’s most elegant wines and this one’s a good example. Ethereal smoky and creamy nuances complement the restrained notes of tropical fruit.  This beautifully balanced wine has a suaveness and finesse enhanced by vibrant acidity that keeps it fresh throughout the meal. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 20, 2009