($14, Vineyard Brands): Charles Back’s whimsical labeling should not hide the fact that he puts serious wine in his bottles.  This blend of roughly three-quarters Shiraz and one-quarter Pinotage, a grape virtually exclusive to South Africa, works very nicely.  Bright spiciness offsets succulent black fruit in his supple wine.  It’s another good choice for bold wintertime fare. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2008