($19): Jean-Paul Brun is one of Beaujolais’ treasures because of the consistent quality of the wines he makes.  His crus of Beaujolais (some of them reviewed this week) are stunning, but his ‘simple’ Beaujolais is equally illuminating because it is so different from the all too often sweet and grapey industrial Beaujolais on the market.  This one has plenty of red and black fruit flavors, but depth and nuances rarely found in Beaujolais.  Try it with a take-out rotisseries chicken. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 23, 2008