($48, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Domaines Ott, perhaps the leading producer of Provence wines, acquired Château Romassan in the 1950s.  In Bandol, as in the Rhone Valley, 2002 was a disaster for wines.  Nonetheless, Château Romassan made an admirable Bandol that year, reminding us that vintage reputation alone never tells the entire story.  Not the typical earthy, intense Bandol, the 2002 Château is a touch lighter with more refinement and grace.  It has none of the hardness that characterizes many southern French wines in 2002.  Ready now, it would be a good choice for robust fare as we enter colder weather. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 9, 2008