($20): Oatley is a huge name in the Australian wine industry, having founded Rosemount, a company whose wines  helped spread the popularity of Australian wines in general. So when he starts a new label and chooses Mudgee, not the most well-known area in Australia for premium grapes, everyone takes notice.  This noteworthy Shiraz combines both the peppery notes and plum-like flavors associated with the varietal.  And it weighs in at less than 13.5% alcohol, an unusual feat for New World Syrah.  They’ve turned down the volume so you can enjoy the music. 86 Michael Apstein Oct 7, 2008