($16, Pasternak Wine Imports): Albrecht has fashioned a lovely dry Riesling that finds a mid-ground between the enamel-cleansing character of some and the soupy sweetness of others.  Plump apple flavors allow you to enjoy a glass as an aperitif, but the hallmark acidity of Riesling means it will hold up nicely through a meal.  Nicely priced, it’s an easy wine to recommend. 87 Michael Apstein Sep 23, 2008