($135, Brown Forman): All wines from the Hospices de Beaune are made by the Hospices’ winemaker and then sold to a firm, such as Michel Picard in this case, which finishes the aging, known as élevage. (The name of the firm performing the élevage appears at the bottom of the label). With a captivating floral nose, this shows the pure–almost sweet–fruit characteristic of great reds from Corton, fine tannins, and great length all come together in this elegant and stylish wine. It deserves its Grand Cru status–not because of sheer power–but because of finesse and complexity. 93. 93 Michael Apstein Jul 29, 2008