($40, Cognac One): Ayala takes its name from the family of Spanish aristocrats, one of whom founded the firm, and not the town, Aÿ, in which it is based.  What it does take from that town, renowned for its Pinot Noir, is a healthy amount of that variety–45%–in the blend.  The remainder of the blend, 30% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Meunier, balances the power imparted by the primary grape with elegance and fruitiness.  The healthy amount of reserve wine, 20%, included in this non-vintage Brut helps explain its stylish complexity.  A powerful style of Champagne, think of this as a ‘baby’ Bollinger, the house which, not coincidently, now owns the firm. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2008