($25): This powerhouse Malbec comes from the highest vineyards in the world–7,200 to 9,900 feet above sea level in the Salta province of the northern Argentine Andes, according to Donald Hess, owner of California’s Hess Estate and other properties, including this one, around the world.   A blend of 85% Malbec, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 8% Tannat–some of which are 90 to 150 year old French pre-phylloxera vines–this intense wine has remarkable elegance and balance for its size. Very concentrated, it is not over-the-top or hot even at its stated 14.9% alcohol.  Still, it’s very much for those who enjoy big, powerful wines, but unlike many of that ilk, it has grace and polish. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008