($26): With about 30 year-old vines, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s  Cold Creek estate vineyard is one of the oldest in Washington State, which explains the depth and complexity of this wine.  Long and broad, this is a serious Merlot, with intriguing smoky and gamey qualities.  Tannins are present and add support–all too lacking in simpler Merlot–but are not intrusive.  It’s an excellent buy. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 15, 2008