($20): Rkatsiteli, a grape native to the Caucasus Mountains of Georgia and widely planted in Eastern Europe and the former Soviet Union, has naturally very high acidity and is often used for sweet wines.  Although Dr. Frank’s version has 7.5 grams of residual sugar, it finishes bone dry, with an almost bitter almond note.  Nuances or herbs and lemons give it added liveliness and make it extremely well suited for full-flavored cuisine. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008