($18, Huneeus Vintners): Primus is the upper end Bordeaux-blend created by Agustin Huneeus, one of Chile’s–and California’s–most savvy and talented winemakers. Although predominantly a blend of Merlot (51%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (32%), it’s the Carmenere (17%), a grape formerly important but now virtually abandoned in Bordeaux and making a renaissance in Chile, that lends an engaging exotic edge to this glossy wine. Intense black cherry-like flavors dovetail with minerality and earthiness. Ripe, smooth tannins lend support without being aggressive. Despite14.5% alcohol, it’s not overdone. 90 Michael Apstein May 27, 2008