($45, Vintage New World): The Adelaide Hills region of South Australia is cooler than most winegrowing areas of Australia and has the potential to produce grapes whose flavors and tannins develop nicely at lower sugar levels.   Hence, the wines, such as this Shiraz, can be concentrated but retain elegance because they are not alcoholic or over the top.  The Lane’s Reunion Shiraz has a gorgeous combination of plumy–almost dried fruit–character and meaty undertones balanced beautifully by freshness and supple tannins.  It has length and finesse rarely seen in Australian Shiraz. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 12, 2008