($25, Tom Eddy Wines): Australia is well-known for its off-the-wall naming of wines, but this one wins the prize.  It’s hard to know the name of the wine from reading the label.  Is it Max, or Off the Leash?  Thankfully, the quality and refinement of this Shiraz Viognier blend is clear.  Despite the confusion about the name it is worth pursuing for its ripe plummy fruit and complexity that emerges from the glass with time. The 13.5% alcohol is a powerful argument that you don’t need overripe grapes to make fine flavor filled wines. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2008