($12, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): A gorgeous blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, it shows the combination of grace and ripeness that is the hallmark of the 2005 vintage. Unusually complex for a wine of this price, it has nuances of earth and other non-fruit flavors to complement the fruit flavors. Supported by firm — but not astringent — tannins means it goes better with a steak or other red meat rather than as a before dinner ‘glass of Merlot.’  It’s an example of why Bordeaux still has a great reputation for producing excellent wines at a fair price, especially in the 2005 vintage. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 8, 2008