($46, Classical Wines): Brighter with better uplifting acidity than the 2003 Bembibre, the 2004 is nonetheless more awkward at this young stage.  A captivating smoky, earthy nose mixed with tar and pepper in the finish suggests it will evolve nicely, and even after just 30 minutes in the glass, it softens.  Give it a few more years to settle down. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007