($8, Shaw Ross International): Marques de Riscal is one of the leading Rioja producers.  They have branched out from their Rioja home to create this Tempranillo-based wine from grapes grown in Spain’s vast central plateau, an area not well known for producing quality wine.  But this area is home to some great vineyards as well as vast tracts of ordinary vines, and talented producers such as Marques de Riscal can do wonders with grapes grown in less exalted land.  This ‘simple’ Tempranillo has unusual class and complexity–New World fruitiness and Old World earthiness–at this price.  A great value, don’t pass on this balanced, suave wine. 89 Michael Apstein May 15, 2007