($22, Moet Hennessy USA): Marques de Grinon’s estate, Dominio de Valdepusa, is considered one of Spain’s vinous gems.  It was Spain’s first Denominación de Origen (DO) Pago, or officially recognized single estate.  (To date there are still only two other estates).  A Pago is a smart and innovative category that identifies great properties that may be located outside of a DO and otherwise would have no official recognition.  Marques de Grinon’s first wine to use Graciano, an indigenous Spanish grape, Caliza (which means limestone in Spanish) is a glorious blend of 2/3rds Syrah and 1/3 Graciano.  Black fruit flavors are prominent in this substantial wine, but do not overwhelm attractive elements of spice and earth.  It has uncommon suaveness for this kind of power. 92 Michael Apstein May 15, 2007