($15, Baystate Wine Company in MA, Henry Wine Group in CA): In my opinion, with the exception of Chablis, Chardonnay usually needs a little oak aging or other techniques, such as malolactic fermentation or lees stirring, to add complexity, so I was skeptical about this wine.  My skepticism disappeared with the first aroma and taste.  It’s a racy beauty.  The delicate fruitiness is highlighted by slight creaminess.  The texture adds to the appeal, and both it and the flavor linger.  Bright citric acidity keeps it lively.  Buy it by the case for drinking now and into the summer.  (In the spirit of full disclosure, the wine sees ‘a tad of oak’ and a little malolactic fermentation, according to Allan Scott, Managing Director of the family firm). 92 Michael Apstein May 15, 2007