($250): The release of Penfolds’ Grange each year on May 1st, after 5 years of aging, is a much anticipated event in Australia.  Peter Gago, the winemaker responsible for Grange, says the 2002 is like the 1990 and 1996, ‘it’s all about poise and balance.’  I would add it’s also about power tempered by elegance and grace.  It’s exceptionally concentrated, but unlike so many powerful Australian reds, it’s not over the top.  Sweet, lush fruit peeks out from the tannins and spicy American oak to show itself in the extraordinary finish.  The flavors persist seemingly forever.  Though expressive now with air, don’t think about drinking it for at least another decade. 96 Michael Apstein May 1, 2007