($88, Foster’s Wine Estates): Penfolds’ Bin 707, their best Cabernet, excels in 2004.  The fruit comes from vineyards in Coonawarra and Barossa, including their famed Block 42, home to the world’s oldest Cabernet vines.  According to Peter Gago, Penfolds’ head winemaker, the Barossa provides particularly attractive Cabernet in cooler years like 2004.  It’s fabulously packed, yet balanced and elegant.  The ripe, cassis-like fruit doesn’t swamp the minerality.  The flavors are seamless. You’d hardly guess it was aged in 100% new American oak.  It’s remarkably forward and engaging now, but the fine tannins will support decades of aging.  And all this with an alcohol of only 13.5%. 97 Michael Apstein May 1, 2007