($26, Wildman): Jolivet owns about 70 acres of vines split evenly between the neighboring wine regions, Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre, that face one another across the Loire Valley.  Made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc, his 2005 Pouilly-Fumé shows the minerality and verve of the region, and shines because the flavors are not distorted by barrel fermentation or aging.  Jolivet coaxes complexity from the wines with extended fermentation and aging on the lees (dead yeast) and achieves elegance and balance.  This wine speaks rather than shouts. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2007