($37, Shaw-Ross International): One of the great things about Spanish wines is that many producers age them for years–sometimes even decades–before release so the consumer has an opportunity to taste the complexity bottle aging imparts.  This 1999 Gran Reserva, the current release, still has tannins of youth, but mature leather and coffee nuances peak out from under fresh dark fruit flavors.  Overall, it’s a nicely balanced wine made mostly–85%–Tempranillo.   The still youthful structure means it is best consumed with dinner, not as an aperitif, and would be a marvelous match for robust fare. 89 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2007