($825, Moet Hennessy USA): This is described as the ‘granddaddy’ of the Krug line by a representative of its importing company, but that’s an understatement.  Krug, one of the few Champagne houses that still ferments its still wine in oak barrels, makes an extraordinary line of Champagne.  Their Clos de Mesnil, first produced in 1978, comes exclusively from Chardonnay grapes grown in the vineyard of the same name located on the Côte des Blancs.  It is an anomaly in Champagne, both for its exquisite elegance and balance, and because, as a monovarietal from a single vineyard, it contradicts the Champenoise tradition and philosophy that blending makes a superior wine.  This shows lovely intensity, without a trace of heaviness, its creaminess is balanced by vibrant acidity. The finish goes on forever. The paradox is how something so light can be so intense.  As with the other 1995 Champagnes, it is beautiful now, but based on my experience with other vintages of Clos de Mesnil, it will evolve beautifully for at least another decade. 97 Michael Apstein Feb 6, 2007