($12, Palm Bay): Carménère, a grape originally grown in Bordeaux but abandoned there because the weather was unpredictable — often too cool — to assure consistent ripening, has found a devoted following among winemakers in Chile. They realize that when planted in warm sites, such as the Rapel Valley, Carménère can produce a wine with considerable complexity.  Santa Rita’s Reserva combines the grape’s inherent earthiness with a very ripe pluminess surrounded by supple tannins.  On the edge of over-ripeness, the gamy element keeps it in check. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 16, 2007