($14, Eric Solomon Selections/European Cellars): Although Spanish regulators awarded the Calatayud region, about 150 miles northeast of Madrid, D.O. status (official recognition as a unique wine growing area) about 15 years ago, it remains obscure, which probably explains why such bargains as this one still abound.  San Alejandro, the region’s major co-operative, has access to fruit from its members’ vinas viejas (old vines) because few have had the resources–or interest–in replanting.  Solomon convinced the co-op to bottle some wine from 100 year-old Garnacha vines separately because he knows that old vines, with their deep root system, produce grapes with more flavor and aroma.  The result is a great wine at a wonderful price.  The 2003 has an almost magical combination of lush black fruit, spice and intensity without sacrificing refinement.  It’s an outstanding value. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2007