($20, Billington Wines): Malbec, a grape, which played a larger role in the Bordeaux blend of the past than currently, has become the signature grape of Argentina. In Bordeaux, winemakers used it in the blend because, despite its potential for coarseness, it contributed intensity and color. In Argentina it frequently stands alone, which often presents a problem because it can make a rustic wine. Catena, one of Argentina’s most talented producer’s, has tamed the Malbec by sanding its rough edges to produce an intense wine with elegance. Don’t give up on Argentine Malbec until you try this one. You’ll be hooked. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2007