($7, Eric Solomon Selections/European Cellars): Yecla, a small area on Spain’s southeastern coast surrounding the town of the same name, is well suited for the Monastrell grape (a.k.a. Mourvèdre in France or Mataro in Australia) because it needs the warmth of the Mediterranean sun to ripen. Castona’s Monastrell Tinto (they also make a Monastrell rosé) is a fantastic bargain. Its spicy, slightly rustic edge makes it a good match for simple robust fare. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2007