($17, Kermit Lynch): Sparkling wines from the Loire Valley, usually made from Chenin Blanc, are less ‘serious’ than Champagne.  But sometimes lively, less weighty fizz is just what you want.  The major problem with bubbly from the Loire is that many are harsh and acidic.  Champalou’s is neither.  Lively and fresh, yes, but most importantly, this suave sparkler is balanced with sufficient ripe fruitiness to harmonize with the acidity. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 26, 2006