($50): Roman Roth, the winemaker at Wolffer Estate, one of Long Island’s best wineries, is making his own wine from purchased grapes.  This 2001 Merlot, his first vintage, is an outstanding wine and shows the potential for that region.  Not overblown — and barely over 13% alcohol — its succulent black fruit, earthy nuances, fine tannins and good structure are harmonious.  The oak flavors are still noticeable, but well integrated, not intrusive. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2006