($12, Robert Kacher Selections): The most distinctive wines from Muscadet, a large area at the western end of the Loire River where it empties into the Atlantic Ocean, come from the Sèvre et Maine sub region.  The Sur Lie designation means that the wine ages on the spent yeast lees for a brief period which adds complexity (and, most importantly, keeps the wine fresh because the yeast act as an antioxidant protecting the wine).  The 2005 Domaine de la Quilla is one of the best Muscadets I’ve had.  Bright and fresh, it has both length and alluring minerality, qualities not often found at this price.  It’s an ideal wine with raw shellfish or delicate seafood. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2006