($50, Kobrand): I usually find wine packaged in heavy, oversized bottles to be overpriced and disappointing-the 2000 Chateau Mouton Rothschild was a distinct exception.  Here’s another exception.  A blend of mostly Merlot with a little Cabernet Franc to lend complexity, Craggy Range’s 2004 Sophia is big and powerful, but not overdone.  Its layers of flavors blossomed and its tannins softened after 30 to 60 minutes in the glass, so either decant it prior to dinner or plan to cellar it for a few years. 92 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2006