($15, Louis Dressner Selections): Jean-Paul Brun’s Terres Dorées label is a reliable sign of quality in Beaujolais.  Too many Beaujolais are just grapey and simple.  Not Terres Dorées.  The 2005 l’Ancien Vieilles Vignes has an attractive layer of earthiness, even minerality, that I assume is the result of vieilles vignes (old vines)-to complement its inherent fruitiness.  Whatever the explanation, it’s the most complex and exciting straight Beaujolais I’ve had. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 14, 2006