($10, Ole Imports): Torremorón, a cooperative in Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s priciest and most renowned wine districts, offers this attractive wine at a gorgeous price.  An under-appreciated asset of cooperatives is most of the members are poor and have not been able to afford to replant their vines.  Hence, many co-ops have the luxury of making wines from older vines, which always produce more flavor packed grapes because their roots go deeper, extracting more from the earth.  The product of old vines explains the unusual complexity found in this modestly priced wine.  It’s an excellent introduction to the fabulous wines coming out of Ribera del Duero. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 7, 2006