($16, Louis Dressner Selections): The French — or at least some of them — are finally changing the way they market their wines.  The crisp eye-catching front label simply says Vieillefont.  The obscure AOC — Côtes de Duras — and even the producer’s name are relegated to the back label.  This ripe, plush blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec makes a more modern style of wine than is common in this ignored part of France.  Still, its appealing structure, complexity and length come through.  It’s a modern bottle that remembers its origins. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 7, 2006