($48, The Australian Premium Wine Collection): Taking a cue from producers of Amarone (Moda refers to Moda Amarone), Joe Grilli, winemaker at Joseph, dries a small proportion of the grapes on straw mats before fermentation to add complexity to the finished wine. You might think this would be the last technique to use in warm Australia, but you’d be wrong. This intense wine shows enticing chocolate or cocoa nuances, and hints of raisins, without losing its balance. The 2000 Moda-sampled at the same tasting-had developed even greater complexity. 90 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2006