($45, Wilson Daniels): Kumeu River has bottled this Chardonnay separately since 2006 because it believes it is unique. Having recently tasted the entire line-up of Chardonnays, I agree. Indeed, all its single-vineyard bottlings are different and show that the French don’t have a monopoly of the concept of terroir.… Read more
Category Archives: New Zealand
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($26): Cloudy Bay put New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc on the world’s wine map in the late 1980s. They have not rested on their laurels. They continue to be a benchmark for that varietal. Along with the bright edginess and bite we’ve come to associate with Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, Cloudy Bay’s version has an appealing weight and the barest whiff of creaminess that adds an extra dimension and fills out the wine. … Read more
Allan Scott Family Winemakers, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($15, Allan Scott USA): I have been — and still am — an admirer and fan of Alan Scott’s wines, having followed them over the years. He was one who showed the world the uniqueness and potential of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Ata Rangi, Martinborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Crimson” 2012
($30, Epic Wines): Martinborough on New Zealand’s Northern Island and Central Otago on the Southern Island are the places for Pinot Noir in that, although you’d get an argument from the growers in Marlborough for failing to include that region. But no one would disagree that Ata Rangi is one of the country’s star producers. … Read more
Allan Scott Family Winemakers, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2011
($18, Allan Scott Wines USA): Allan Scott was among the early pioneers in Marlborough showing how that region could excel with Sauvignon Blanc. He is now showing what the region can do with Pinot Noir. His 2011, perhaps his best ever, is an impeccably balanced combination of pristine fruitiness and savory earthy nuances. … Read more
Mt. Difficulty, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Roaring Meg” 2011
($25, American Estate Wines): Central Otago is one the great areas in New Zealand for Pinot Noir, and Mt. Difficulty is one the best producers there. This solid Pinot Noir, the winery’s second label, combines bright clean red fruit-like flavors with a whiff of earth and leafiness. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Chardonnay Kidnappers Vineyard 2011
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Craggy Range’s Kidnappers Vineyard shows the appeal of unoaked Chardonnay. Lean and lithe, its crispness and verve reflects the proximity of the vineyard to the cooling influences of the sea. While many unoaked Chardonnay’s are hollow, this one is not. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Te Kahu” 2011
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This bargain Bordeaux blend is the 2nd wine of Craggy Range’s Sophia, their red Bordeaux flag ship. Winemaker Steve Smith says they’ve identified areas of their Gimblett Gravels vineyard that produce grapes that lack the character they are seeking for Sophia. … Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir Te Muna Road Vineyard 2011
($46, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Craggy Range recently held ten-year vertical tasting, from their first vintage in 2002 to the 2011, of their Te Muna Road Vineyard Pinot Noir. The tasting demonstrated that Craggy Range is–without doubt–one of New Zealand’s top producers of that variety. … Read more
Craggy Range, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2012
($22, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Craggy Range specializes in single vineyard wines. I’m not familiar enough with vineyard-to-vineyard differences among New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc to know whether the beauty of this one stems from the vineyard or the producer. Whatever the reason, it’s a stunning wine. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Le Sol” 2009
($100, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Everyone these days knows that New Zealand is home to refreshing and zesty Sauvignon Blanc. It’s no secret that Martinborough and Central Otago are giving Burgundy a run for its money with their Pinot Noir. But Syrah? … Read more
Rippon, Central Otago (New Zealand) Riesling 2009
($30, Station Imports): Although New Zealand’s Central Otago region on the South Island is prized Pinot Noir area–80% of the vineyards are planted to that grape–it should come as no surprise that Riesling does very well there as well because it, like Pinot Noir, likes cooler climate. … Read more
Burn Cottage, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2011
($50, Classic Wines): The international backgrounds of the people involved with Burn Cottage help explain why this Pinot Noir is exceptional. Marquis Sauvage, owner, though hailing from Kansas, is no stranger to the wine business. He and his family own wine distributorships in the Midwest and Koehler Ruprecht in the Rhinepfalz. … Read more
Huia, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2009
($22, Adventures In Wine): It’s clear to me after tasting a range of aromatic white wines from New Zealand that the Kiwis make exciting whites in addition to their unique and distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. Huia’s Pinot Gris proves the point. It clearly has the weight of Pinot Gris — as opposed to the lighter style of Pinot Grigio, the other name for the same grape.… Read more
Forrest, Marlborough (New Zealand) Riesling “The Doctors’” 2011
($15, American Wine Distributors): The name of the wine reflects that the owners, John and Bridgett Forrest, both have PhDs. These smart people need to convey on the label the style of Riesling that’s in the bottle because it’s a touch sweet and consumers expecting dry Riesling will be startled. … Read more
Greywacke, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Wild” 2010
($29, Old Bridge Cellars): Just when you thought there were enough New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc on the market, another one grabs your attention with its grandeur and complexity. It has a bit of everything, an alluring hint of flintiness, a delicate creaminess and vibrant acidity, and not too much of anything. … Read more
Sherwood Estate, Waipara Valley (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Clearwater” 2010
($28, Sherwood Estate Wines USA): New Zealand continues to be a source for excellent Pinot Noir. And this one, from Canterbury, another area well suited to the varietal, is just another example. It delivers charm and grace as well as the almost paradoxical combination of fruit and savory notes. … Read more
Seifried, Nelson (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($18, Pacific Prime): 92 Michael Apstein Aug 1, 2012… Read more
Greywacke, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2010
($39, Old Bridge Cellars): Kevin Judd, the founding winemaker at Cloudy Bay, the winery that put New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc on the world’s wine map, shows with this wine that he can also make distinctive Pinot Noir. After 25 years at Cloudy Bay, Judd and his wife, Kimberly, established Greywacke in 2009. … Read more
Peregrine, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2009
($35, Vineyard Brands): Peregrine has fashioned a beautifully pure and pretty Pinot Noir from one of New Zealand’s premier regions (Martinborough’s another) for that varietal. Concentrated, yet not overdone, it would be a good choice for grilled salmon this summer. 89 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2012… Read more
Dog Point, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2008
($39, Vintus): The Marlborough region of New Zealand is best known for their vibrant and zesty Sauvignon Blanc. It’s clear from this Pinot Noir that Marlborough has more to offer. (Dog Point does also make splendid Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc). Their Pinot Noir is bright and fresh. … Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2011
($20, Kobrand): Although the Marlborough region on the north tip of the South Island has made a name for itself for stunning Sauvignon Blanc—and rightly so—Martinborough, just a stone’s throw away on the southern tip of the North Island, also is home to stylish Sauvignon Blanc, especially in Craggy Range’s hands. … Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Late Harvest Riesling 2008
($31, Moët Hennessey USA): Cloudy Bay put New Zealand on the world’s wine map with their Sauvignon Blanc two decades ago. They just might do the same with Late Harvest Riesling, judging from this one. Sure, it’s sweet, but not cloying, and delivers hints of peaches and apricot skin. … Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($31, Moët Hennessey USA): You might think that Cloudy Bay would rest on its laurels given their tremendous reputation at producing exemplary Sauvignon Blanc. But they haven’t. They’ve actually increased the quality of their all ready terrific Sauvignon Blanc as the vines age and they gain even more experience with their vineyards. … Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2009
($40, Moët Hennessey USA): Marlborough is usually ranked after Central Otago and Martinborough when considering prime sites for Pinot Noir in New Zealand. A few more wines like this one and that paradigm in likely to change. Sarah Burton and the winemaking team has managed to capture both the fruity and savory sides of Pinot Noir in their 2009 bottling. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Te Kahu” 2010
($21, Kobrand): Craggy Range focuses on making wines from individual, single vineyards in an attempt to capture the flavors of a unique site. I don’t have sufficient experience with vineyard sites for red wines in New Zealand to know whether they succeeded in that goal. … Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($25, Moët Hennessey USA): Cloudy Bay catapulted New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc on the world’s wine map about 25 years ago. As a leading producer, some might think they could rest on their laurels. But they haven’t. Their latest release, the 2011, has the trademark vibrancy and zestiness of Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region, but also has mouth-filling texture and length that sets it apart. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Te Kahu” 2009
($22, Kobrand): Craggy Range specializes in making wines from grapes grown in a single vineyard to capture the uniqueness of place. This one, their Bordeaux blend of Merlot (80%), Cabernet Franc (12%) Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) and Malbec, is a terrific argument for their philosophy. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Chardonnay Kidnapper’s Vineyard 2010
($22, Kobrand): Craggy Range is one of New Zealand’s top producers. They focus on single-vineyard wines and have the uncanny ability to make distinctive wines from a broad range of grape varieties, both white and red. This is one of them. … Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2010
($22, Kobrand): While the Marlborough region gets lots of acclaim—rightly so—for their Sauvignon Blanc, let’s not overlook Martinborough, literally a stone’s throw away on the southern tip of the North Island. Craggy Range’s 2010 from its Te Muna Road Vineyard is simply dazzling. … Read more
Starborough, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2010
($15, Starborough Vineyards): This zippy wine delivers just the right dollop of clean citrus-tinged notes and herbal pungency. It’s a well-priced introduction to the allure of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and a good choice for simply grilled fish. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 1, 2011… Read more
Forrest Estate, Marlborough (New Zealand) Riesling “The Doctors’” 2010
($19, Pacific Prime Wines): Many consumers have become quite conscious of alcohol levels in wine these days (and that’s also true of many writers, for that matter), and this is a very unusual New World wine in how restrained it is in terms of alcohol content. … Read more
Cloudy Bay, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2007
($35, Moët Hennessey USA): Cloudy Bay thrust New Zealand onto the world’s wine map with their Sauvignon Blanc two decades ago. They’ve added Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to their portfolio and while neither will replace their Sauvignon Blanc as their standard bearer, this Pinot Noir shows that the Marlborough region is well suited for that varietal. … Read more
Goldwater, Wairau Valley (Marlborough, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2010
($15, Pasternak Wine Imports): This wine has the expected electrifying zing we’ve come to expect from Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. But it also delivers a flinty, almost smoky, quality that makes it stand apart. It has an expansive mouth-filling quality often lacking in wines at this price.… Read more
Felton Road, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Block 5” 2008
($72, Wilson Daniels): Central Otago, in the southern part of New Zealand’s South Island, is a name to remember for high quality complex Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noirs from here, while stylistically distinct from Burgundy, still have to potential to rival their French counterparts. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Coddington” 2008
($45, Wilson Daniels): I’ve not tasted all the Chardonnays produced in New Zealand, so it would not be credible for me to claim that Kumeu River’s are the best. But having tasted them regularly over the years, they must be on a short list for that accolade. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Hunting Hill” 2007
($45, Wilson Daniels): Kumeu River is located on New Zealand’s North Island well north (which means warmer in the Southern Hemisphere) of Marlborough or Central Otago, two of the countries more well-known sites for top-notch wine on the South Island. Nonetheless, its proximity to the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean (no more than 15 miles) means it’s a cool site. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Maté’s Vineyard” 2008
($48, Wilson Daniels): Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay, the flagship Chardonnay of the estate, is named for Maté Brajkovich, who founded the winery along with his parents in 1944. In 1990, Maté replanted the original vineyard he and his parents purchased with Chardonnay. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Village” 2007
($22, Wilson-Daniels): Granted, I’ve not tasted every New Zealand Chardonnay, but I’ve yet to find a consistently better Chardonnay producer than Kumeu River.
Kumeu River bottles an array of Chardonnay ranging from this “entry level” to several single vineyards, each of which reflects their unique site. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Estate” 2007
($36, Wilson-Daniels): The Estate Chardonnay comes entirely from this producer’s grapes, and only the best ones at that since the lesser fruit goes into their Village bottling (also reviewed this week). It addition to subtle fresh tropical fruit notes, it conveys minerality and marvelous richness. … Read more
Felton Road, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Bannockburn” 2009
($45, Wilson-Daniels): Central Otago, located on the southern end of New Zealand’s South Island, is one of the few places in the world where Pinot Noir has the potential to make outstanding wine. And Felton Road is one the best producers in the area. … Read more
Mount Nelson, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2010
($17, Wilson Daniels): Founded in 2003, Mount Nelson is a joint venture of Lodovico and Piero Antinori. Lodovico always had an interest in Sauvignon Blanc, planting a prime vineyard to it when he established Ornellaia in Bolgheri. Just as in Bolgheri, this Sauvignon Blanc reflects its origins precisely. … Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2010
($22, Kobrand): By focusing on single and unique vineyards, Craggy Range has propelled itself into the top tier of New Zealand producers. Their 2010 Te Muna Road Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc is their best ever–and that’s saying a lot considering their 2009 was excellent as well. … Read more
Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Regional Collection 2009
($12, International Cellars): David Strada, the US representative for New Zealand wines, raves about the 2009 vintage. This wine shows why. It has the easy to recognize zesty grapefruit-like tang of Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region. But it also has a weight and intensity that fills it out. … Read more
Drylands, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2009
($17, Franciscan Estates): A suave texture fills out the middle and balances the quintessential zesty–almost biting–character of this Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Not just an uplifting summertime wine, try it with oysters now. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 1, 2011… Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay ‘Village’ 2008
($20, Wilson Daniels): Kumeu River is one of the best, if not the best, Chardonnay producers in New Zealand. They make a stunning array of Chardonnays that redefines what can be done with that varietal in the New World. They have three levels of Chardonnay that they have modeled on the Burgundy hierarchy of village wine, premier cru and grand cru. … Read more
Villa Maria, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Merlot/Cabernet/Malbec “Cellar Selection” 2008
($18, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): Villa Maria is one of New Zealand’s leading producers who delivers consistent quality–and value–across a broad range of wines. They have four “tiers” of wines. In descending order of stature and price they are Single Vineyard, Reserve, Cellar Selection and Private Bin. … Read more
Wild Rock, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2008
($18, Kobrand): Central Otago is one of the best areas in New Zealand for Pinot Noir because of its cool climate. And this one is a good example of why the region has the reputation for the varietal that it does. … Read more
Mohua, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2009
($18, Vineyard Brands): The Central Otago area on New Zealand’s South Island is well known for its superb Pinot Noir. After tasting this wine, you can add Pinot Gris to its list of successful varietals. With good weight and pear-like notes, this New Zealand beauty is clearly in the Pinot Gris–as opposed to the Pinot Grigio–style of the varietal. … Read more
Goldwater Estate, Wairau Valley (Marlborough, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
($14, Pasternak Wine Imports): The justified popularity of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has spawned some pretty vapid examples of the category, especially at the lower price levels. But don’t let the price of this one make you suspicious. Rather, stock up, because it shows why the category is so popular. … Read more