($19, Vias Imports): Vermentino is a go-to grape/wine when you yearn for a reasonably priced accompaniment for seafood. That is not to say there are no great upper-end renditions of Vermentino — there are — but there are also many more affordable releases that will introduce tasters to the charms of this grape/wine. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Sardinia
Sella & Mosca, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “La Cala” 2022
($15, Taub Family Selections): Sella and Mosca’s lightweight (12.5 percent stated alcohol) and bargain priced Vermentino is a delight to drink with shellfish or most anything from the sea. It also works well by itself, especially during warm weather. Its invigorating saline minerality harmonizes with its floral character. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Sardegna Alghero Rosso DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Tanca Farrà” 2019
($32, Taub Family Selections): Regulations for the Sardegna Alghero Rosso DOC allow the inclusion of any Sardinian red grapes except for aromatic ones. Sella & Mosca use a seamless, fifty-fifty blend of Cannonau and Cabernet Sauvignon to achieve this beauty. Juicy black fruit enrobed with fine tannins make this suave, muscular wine a pleasure to drink now. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Sardegna Alghero DOC (Sardinia, Italy) 2016
($60, Taub Family Selections): This big but not boisterous wine shows that Sella & Mosca is equally capable with the so-called international grapes as with local ones. Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon, the Marchese di Villamarina delivers succulent black fruit, plenty of savory notes all wrapped in firm, not hard, tannins. … Read more
Sella & Mosca, Cannonau di Sardegna DOC Riserva (Sardinia, Italy) 2020
($17, Taub Family Selections): Sella & Mosca, despite their size — the largest estate on Sardinia — makes excellent wines. This juicy mid-weight Cannonau, the local name for Grenache, delivers crunchy red fruit combined with a hint of spice. Not a fruit bomb by any means, it actually has an engaging hint of bitterness in its long finish. … Read more
Vinicola Cherchi, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Tuvaoes” 2019
($27, Romano Brands): Vermentino can produce wines ranging from innocuous to stunning. Put this one in the stunning category. It combines a lovely saline-like invigorating character with good weight and length. It commands a presence on the table without being heavy or overdone. … Read more
Tenute Soletta, Vermentino di Sardegna (Sardinia, Italy) “Sardo” 2019
($20): The brother and sister-run Tenute Soletta is a new estate by Italian standards, having been created in 1996. They use only their own grapes and focus on this Vermentino and a similarly delicious Cannonau. This Vermentino spends about seven months on the lees, which likely accounts, at least in part, for its richness. … Read more
Tenute Soletta, Cannonau di Sardegna (Sardinia, Italy) “Sardo” 2016
($24): This Cannonau (also known as Garnacha or Grenache), displays a dark, haunting profile with slightly funky, in a nice way, accents. Dark fruit flavors are apparent and balance the savory elements in this chewy wine. This is a weighty, but not heavy, wine perfect for a hearty meal on a winter day or to serve with robust fare from the grill.… Read more
Agricola Punica, Isola del Nuraghi IGT (Sardinia, Italy) “Barrua” 2015
($46): Agricola Punica is a collaboration between Tenuta San Guido, the Bolgheri producer responsible for Sassicaia, and Sardinia’s Cantina di Santadi. The late Giacomo Tachis, who was a genius at sensing the utility of the so-called Bordeaux varieties in selected Italian locales, suggested the blend of Carignano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for their wine to be called “Barrua.” … Read more
Argiolas, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Is Argiolas” 2018
($20, Winebow): The Vermentino grape produces the best wine when, as the saying goes, its vines “can see the sea,” which is why it is an important grape on the island of Sardinia. Argiolas, a family-run winery dating to 1938, selects its oldest vines for Is Argiolas. … Read more
Santa Maria La Palma, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Blu” 2016
($15): Vermentino, Sardinia’s most planted grape variety, has become “hot.” Even the French are starting to use the Italian name instead of the French name, Rolle. Vermentino does best in a hot climate with proximity to the sea, which makes Sardinia a perfect locale. … Read more
Sardinia: Italy’s Other Island
“People can’t find Sardinia on a map,” complained Valentina Argiolas, a member of the family that owns Sardinia’s leading winery. She was speaking literally in describing the fundamental hurdle producers need to overcome to sell their wines. At a recent tasting and seminar of Sardinian wines in San Francisco and again in Japan, she was mortified when the map the organizers projected onto the screen failed to show Italy’s second largest island. … Read more