Category Archives: France – Beaujolais

Villa Ponciago, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) La Reserve 2011

($21, Henriot, Inc): Beaujolais gets a bad rap.  It’s partially deserved because of all of the slightly sweet and vapid swill labeled Beaujolais on the market.  But there are a few producers who are trying desperately — they must sometimes feel it’s like pushing a rock up a hill — to change the image with their wines from the cru, or named villages, such as Fleurie, of the region. Read more

Château du Moulin-À-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010

($38, Wilson Daniels): Similar to their 2009, Château du Moulin-À-Vent’s 2010 Moulin-à-Vent reflects the vintage’s cooler growing season.   Fresher and more lively than their 2009, the 2010 has an uplifting sour cherry-like finish that begs for another sip.  Still with the granitic edge and firm — not hard — tannins expected from top-notch Moulin-à-Vent, it’s more linear and less opulent compared to the 2009. Read more

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) “Couvent des Thorins” 2012

($28, Wilson Daniels): Ever since the Parinet family purchased this iconic property in 2009, they have been making marvelous wine.  They focus solely on wine from Moulin-à-Vent, one of the top crus of Beaujolais.  Moulin-à-Vent is home to well-structured rich wines that often need years of bottle age — these wines are as far away from insipidly fruity Beaujolais-Nouveau as you can get. Read more

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) Clos des Londres 2009

($100, Wilson Daniels): Yes, you read the price correctly — $100 for a bottle of Beaujolais.  But to associate this wine with conventional image of Beaujolais — a fruity easy-to-drink wine — would be a terrible mistake.  The wines from Moulin-à-Vent, though a village in the Beaujolais region, rightly stand apart from that region and carry their own appellation. Read more

Jean Paul Brun, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012

($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Brun’s Beaujolais, bottled under the Terres Dorées label, redefine that appellation.  The vast majority of Beaujolais — I’m not speaking of Beaujolais-Village and certainly not the cru — are nothing more than alcoholic grape juice.  But Brun’s is real wine filled with satisfying mix of fruitiness and herbal/spicy elements. … Read more

Maison J. J. Vincent, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009

($12, Frederick Wildman & Sons):  J. J. Vincent is best known for their consistently excellent Pouilly Fuissé from their domaine, the Chateau de Fuissé.  This Beaujolais-Villages, however, comes from the négociant side of their company, from vines located within the village of Juliénas, but not within that cru’s appellation.  … Read more

Potel-Aviron, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009

($16, Frederick Wildman):  Stéphane Aviron describes his 2009 Beaujolais as “sunny wines” because of the warmth of the vintage.  Anyone who thinks that all Beaujolais is just tutti-fruity and jammy should try his wines.  Spiced with a touch of minerality, this 2009 Beaujolais Villages harbors not a hint of overt grapey flavors. … Read more

Beaujolais Renaissance

Six centuries after Philippe the Bold exiled the “vile and noxious” Gamay grape from Burgundy in favor of the “elegant” Pinot Noir, Burgundians are once again embracing the grape in the wines of Beaujolais. The region has long been known primarily for Beaujolais Nouveau, a beverage closer to alcoholic grape juice than wine, but is now undergoing a dramatic change as Beaune-based négociants buy vineyards and identify unique parcels for separate bottlings.
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Maison Louis Jadot, Beaujolais-Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009

($12, Kobrand):  The 2009 vintage is likely the best the Beaujolais region has seen in decades, according to veteran producers there.  It’s no surprise then, that Jadot, a top-notch Beaune-based Burgundy producer who has been investing heavily there since their purchase of Château des Jacques in 1996, made stunning Beaujolais in 2009. … Read more

Michel Tête, Julienas (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de Clos du Fief 2007

($18, Louis Dressner Selections): Michel Tête, one of the top Beaujolais producers, uses the name Domaine de Clos du Fief for the vineyards he owns in Juliénas, one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais allowed to carry the village name.  Wines from Juliénas typically display a charming rusticity and true to form, this one combines that engaging quality with an earthy—almost briary—character that melds nicely with the bright red fruit flavors. … Read more

Domaine Piron et Lafont, Chenas (Beaujolais, France) Quartz 2006

($18, Michael Skurnick): Chenas is one of the 10 villages in Beaujolais whose wines are distinctive and are allowed to carry the village name—instead of the more generic Beaujolais-Villages—on the label.  The name, Quartz, comes from a vein of quartz running through the vineyard and is responsible for the wine’s earthy minerality, which acts as a lovely complement to its red cherry fruit-like flavors.  … Read more

Vincent Audras, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Clos de Haute-Combe 2006

($19, Becky Wasserman Selection):  Julienas is one of the ten crus–best villages–within the Beaujolais region.  This wine’s charmingly rustic character nicely complements and offsets the cherry-like fruitiness.  Mild tannins and bright acidity lend structure without being abrasive.  It’s a perfect “bistro” wine.… Read more

Georges Descombes, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2006

($30): I know, 30 bucks for Beaujolais is a lot of money.  But, this is not your father’s grapey rendition.  Louis Dressner manages to find Beaujolais producers who make distinctive wines.  Those of you skeptical of the genre–that includes Michael Franz, my colleague and editor at WRO–really ought to try wines like this one. … Read more

Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Tardive” 2007

($30, Louis Dressner Selections): The Clos de la Roilette is a beautifully located 22-acre vineyard in Fleurie, one of the ten crus (named villages) of Beaujolais, adjacent to Moulin-a-Vent.  This, the Cuvée Tardive–not to be confused with a vendange tardive, which would indicate a sweet wine–is a selection from old vines and typically needs more aging time. … Read more

Terres Dorees, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) “l’Ancien de Jean-Paul Brun” 2007

($19): Jean-Paul Brun is one of Beaujolais’ treasures because of the consistent quality of the wines he makes.  His crus of Beaujolais (some of them reviewed this week) are stunning, but his ‘simple’ Beaujolais is equally illuminating because it is so different from the all too often sweet and grapey industrial Beaujolais on the market. … Read more

Joseph Burrier, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Les Paquelets” 2005

($20, Ex-Cellars): Burrier, proprietor of the high-quality Château de Beauregard in Pouilly-Fuissé, also acts as a small négociant for a few wines from Beaujolais. This terrific wine from Julienas, one of the best crus of Beaujolais, conveys fresh fruity, but not grapey, flavors along with an alluring wildness often characteristic of wines from this village. … Read more

Louis Jadot, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2006

($12, Kobrand): Jadot has made a substantial investment in Beaujolais with their single vineyard wines from their estates in Moulin-a-Vent, Brouilly, Fleurie and Morgon.  Their commitment shows even in this wine, their lowest level Beaujolais.  Sure, it delivers plenty of the berry-like fruitiness, characteristic of wines from the region. … Read more

Terres Dorées, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) l’Ancien Vieilles Vignes 2005

($15, Louis Dressner Selections): Jean-Paul Brun’s Terres Dorées label is a reliable sign of quality in Beaujolais.  Too many Beaujolais are just grapey and simple.  Not Terres Dorées.  The 2005 l’Ancien Vieilles Vignes has an attractive layer of earthiness, even minerality, that I assume is the result of vieilles vignes (old vines)-to complement its inherent fruitiness. … Read more