($50, Louis Latour, USA): Though at least 85 percent of wine from Beaune is red, a small amount of white come from that appellation. Latour’s white Aux Cras is one of the best. And because white Beaune lacks the cachet of the big three, Meursault, Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet, the wines are less expensive. Combine those two facts with the additional fact that the 2020 vintage was superb for whites and you have an easy-to-recommend white Burgundy. The 2020 Domaine Latour Beaune Aux Cras displays a graceful mineral aspect and riveting citrus vibrancy. Long and refined, it is satisfying even at this youthful stage, but has the requisite balance and verve to go the distance. I hate to call a $50 a bottle a bargain, but in the current context of Burgundy, it is.
93 Michael Apstein Sep 27, 2022