($65):  Ben and Jake Fetzer, grandsons of Barney Fetzer who founded the very popular and successful Fetzer Vineyards in Mendocino County in 1968, have followed the family tradition.  Working together, they are in charge of both the viticulture and winemaking at Masút, a 1,200-acre property their parents founded in 1994.  The brothers were instrumental in establishing the Eagle Peak AVA at the headwaters of the Russian River Valley in Mendocino.  Masút focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which seem to be very well suited to the cooler climate of this elevated area.  The 2019 Big Barrel Pinot Noir has an entirely different focus from their Rural Wine Company.  Here, alluring savory influences appear, add complexity, and balance the dark tightly contained black fruit elements.  The suave texture of this mid-weight wine adds to its charm.  It grows in the glass, so don’t rush it.  Or, better yet, find a place in your cellar and revisit it in a couple of years.
92 Michael Apstein May 17, 2022