($25):  This suave and restrained wine is emblematic of the change in California Chardonnay.  Still fruit focused, it has, thankfully, lost the opulent oaky and sweet character that has given Chardonnay such a bad name.  Good acidity keeps it bright and energetic, making the last sip is as enjoyable as the first.  And the price is restrained, too.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 14, 2021