($19, Quintessential Wines): Arneis, a grape found nowhere in Italy except Piedmont, makes one of that country’s overlooked white wines. The Oxford Companion to Wine informs us that is used to be blended with Nebbiolo to soften Barolo and gained the informal local tag of “Barolo Bianco.” Fortunately, that name didn’t stick. Luca Bosio’s 2020 has a haunting floral aroma, good weight, and a welcome touch of minerality. Bright acidity keeps it fresh. All in all, it’s an excellent choice for this summer’s seafood.
91 Michael Apstein Jul 13, 2021