($33):  Fattoria Varramista, located halfway between Florene and Pisa, has about 20 acres of vineyards planted to Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. They expertly blend those grapes to make this glossy well-proportioned wine where none of its elements predominate.  Fleshy, but not overly fruity, savory notes remain in this traditionally framed wine.  Long and graceful, a delightful hint of bitterness in the finish reminds you this is not a fruit-bomb.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 30, 2021